I have long
held the ambition to one day visit an American Civil War battlefield. Then, in
late September, whilst working in the US, I found myself with a Saturday off
and the battlefield of all Civil War battlefields “only” 4 hours drive from
where I was staying!
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Free tourist map provided by the information desk |
It was a no-brainer,
as they say, and I was up and out of the hotel and on the road by 6am!
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Rebel Uniform |
The journey
from Pittsburgh was straight forwards and on interstate dual carriageway nearly
the entire way there.
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Selection of handguns! |
Arriving amongst
the rain and mist at 10am, I was surprised to see how the charming little town
of Gettysburg appears to still be made up of buildings contemporary to the war.
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Recalling the Gettysburg address |
I made my
way to the Gettysburg National Military Park Museum & Visitor Center
thinking this would be a good start and would set the scene for my visit.
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The Gun line in the Cyclorama |
I was not disappointed.
The visitor’s centre is modern and roomy. It has toilets, an information desk,
restaurant, museum, well-stocked gift shop and the Cyclorama (a circular painting
by the French artist Paul Philippoteaux depicting Pickett's Charge, the
climactic Confederate attack on the Union forces during the Battle of
Gettysburg on July 3, 1863).
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The 1832 "Old Dorm" Seminary Ridge |
To enter
the museum & Cyclorama there was a fee, which could be grouped together
with a 2-hour coach tour. As I only had one day to visit & wanted to get
the very most from the experience, I opted for the whole package ($53). I surmised
that if time allowed, I could always re-visit any viewpoints that interested me
in my car after the tour was finished.
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Tour Bus - 2 hour tours |
This proved
to be a good choice. The museum tells the story of the whole Civil War and
where the battle of Gettysburg fits in context. It was excellent, if a little
darkly lit, with many contemporary items, weapons & uniforms displayed.
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Typical rail fences on Seminary Ridge |
The
Cyclorama is very evocative. I’ve visited a similar thing on the battlefield at
Waterloo and it’s a great way to place the viewer at point in time during a
momentous event!
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Starting point for Pickett's Charge |
The coach
tour was excellent. The tour guide was from Atlanta (a Southerner!) who did a
great job to tell the story from both points of view. In fact, that was a great
learning for me. When a country looks back on a Civil War, you have to remain
positive and not point fingers at “Them & us” otherwise you just perpetuate
the animosity.
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The ground over which they charged |
They took
us around the site following the course of the battle over three days. Stopping
every few hundred metres to get out and view the myriads of memorials etc. Many
of these- the Confederate ones –are at risk from the US Woke/Cancel-Culture
and may disappear.
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The Devil's Den beneath Little Round Top |
The area is
a National Military Park supported by the American Battlefield Trust. I had
downloaded their visitor information app ready to do a self-tour and found it
extremely helpful when I drove around later on. The app is GPS enabled and will
literally guide you from stand to stand and then give you all the information
you could possibly need in written, spoken, pictorial & video format!! It’s
amazing and completely free. You could easily conduct a “Tour” from the comfort
of your armchair, it’s really that good.
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The View from Little Round Top |
The
landscape is little changed (a few new buildings, better roads and slightly expanded
forestry) from 1863 and you can really understand the tactical challenges faced
by the two opponents.
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The Peach Orchard |
Many of the
opposing forces front lines are marked out with rail fencing & preserved
cannon. This makes it easy to understand the areas fought over.
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The Wheatfield |
The tour
took you to all the iconic landmarks. Amongst the most iconic were Jenny Wade’s
house, Seminary Ridge, scene of Pickett’s Charge, Little Round Top, the Peach Orchard,
the Wheatfield Devil’s Den, both commander’s HQs and the Gettysburg National
Cemetery.
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Gettysburg National Cemetery |
I spent the
entire day there, leaving for my hotel in Pittsburgh at 4.30pm just as it was
starting to get darker.
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Longstreet Memorial |
Gettysburg
is a fantastic place to visit. I could easily have spent 2-3 days there. The
town itself deserves more detailed exploration and there were several more
museums to be visited that I just didn’t have the time to see. Everything is
accessible and well sign posted. There’s ample carparking and sufficient public
toilets around the site.
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Lee's HQ during the battle |
I literally
took hundreds of photographs, but I’ve just inflicted a select few to help
illustrate the article!
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View towards Little Round Top |
If you ever
get the opportunity to visit, don’t miss out!